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​BLOG, JEWISH TRAVEL
​Why every convert should travel to Poland

AUGUST 26, 2018


​Every young Jew from Israel travels at least once in their life to Poland to get to know part of their history. This trip is part of the Jewish identity. I went to Poland to discover Judaism from a different perspective. Everything was new to me at that time. With this article I want to encourage you to do the same and follow me in my footsteps to have the most precious experience.

When I was introduced to Judaism I knew almost nothing about Jewish history. Although I grew up in Germany, I didn’t even know much about the Holocaust. After my trip to Israel, where I was introduced to Judaism, I had a strong feeling that I would like to get to know Judaism even better. I could have informed myself about suitable travel destination for jewish inspired trips, but instead I just looked at a map and knew my intuition would guide my eyes to the right place. It was Poland. Poland? At first glance, it did not seem to be that interesting to me... but from my experience, I knew that I could always rely on my intuition. So, without much thought, I booked a flight to Krakow and only a few days later I embarked on an adventure.

I never really travel with any plans. I just go with the flow and know, that everything is going to come about in the right moment. That is precisely what happened on this trip. Did you know that there is a huge Jewish quarter in Krakow? Along with several synagogues, museums, kosher/jewish/israeli restaurants and Jewish music festivals? I didn't. Until I was there. Wow, what a gift! I couldn't believe it! It seemed like the perfect place to be for anyone is chasing Jewish history.
Photo by discovercracow.com
Kazimierz the Jewish Quarter of Krakow

The traces of ancient Jewish history are hidden in the old walls, streets, alleys, synagogues, and cemeteries. The neighborhood, with its Jewish prayer houses and street names, look as if their old residents should return tomorrow. But they don’t. Before World War II Kazimierz was the home of the Polish Jewish population. Then they were deported to ghettos and eventually to concentration camps. For many of the Jews it was the last place they would ever go.
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Today, the district is flourishing again and attracts countless tourists from all over the world, Jews and non-Jews a-like. Somehow, I have to admit,  it’s ironic to see non-Jewish people visiting a Jewish quarter as a tourist attraction.
photo by potepuhinja.blogspot.com
 7 Synagogues in one Day

The Jewish quarter of Kazimierz used to be an international neighborhood with Jews from all over Europe. Maybe that is why there are seven synagogues within just a small area. I was incredibly excited to spend the whole day walking from one holy house to another It felt like I was in a synagogue marathon. Exploring the different beautiful architectures I felt like I was going back in time. If you are looking for an intense Jewish experience for your holiday, this is the perfect place. It can take days to experience all the different activities in Kazimierz: All the synagogues, Jewish museums, Jewish and Israeli Restaurants, the old cemeteries, the mikveh. And it is such a profound feeling to just walk in the streets and imagine the atmosphere from when Jews could still live there in peace.

For a typical Israeli breakfast I highly recommend the cozy kosher Israeli Restaurant "Hamsa Humus and Happiness".  And if you want to enjoy a Polish Jewish traditional meal while sitting in the busy market place and observing the liveliness in the Jewish quarter, I have a suggestion: The kosher Restaurant in the city center called "Ariel".

Photo by Jorge Lascar
photo by potepuhinja.blogspot.com
A Haredi Shabbat in Kazimierz

It was Friday afternoon and Shabbat was about to start. It would be the fourth Shabbat I would witness. I didn't know if I should only visit the synagogue for the Friday night service or if it wouldn't be appropriate. In the end I decided to go. I went to Remuh-Synagogue, the only Beit Knesset that is still in use for Shabbat. When the service started, I found myself surrounded only by singing and praying Haredi women. I was the only one who couldn't follow the service and the ladies started to notice. I had never spoken to an Ultra-Orthodox person before and to be honest, I was a little afraid to reveal my secret.
The women were dressed in only black and white and wore wigs. It was a completely different world for me. Despite my worries, they approached me speaking in Yiddish and invited me to join them for Shabbat dinner. The group of 20 women welcomed me with such warm hearts. We ate a typical Ashkenazi Shabbat dinner and they told me everything about their lives. Little by little  I lost my anxiety and I discovered, that they were no different than every other woman. I had the time of my life with them. A Haredi Shabbat in Krakow, definitely one of my favorite moments throughout my conversion!
Photos by CIZ Cafe - Jewish Information Center
A Jewish surprise in Wroclaw

The second stop in my Jewish journey to Poland was Wroclaw.
When I arrived at my Hotel, I saw a great surprise awaiting me: the city's synagogue, the Jewish information Center, and the only kosher restaurants and cafes in Wroclaw were right next door. I literally had a view of the synagogue from my bed!! I couldn't have been happier! To experience that same special excitement you should spend your nights in the Hotel & Hostel Mleczarnia. 

The next door "Jewish Information Center", which is a kosher coffeehouse, bookshop, and tourist info centre, became my second home. I went there for breakfast, lunch, cake in the afternoon and dinner, enjoying the polish Jewish and Israeli snacks. And of course to exchange with Jewish young Poles about Jewish life in Wroclaw. 

​The old synagogue "White Swan" is nowadays used for interesting Jewish exhibitions and concerts and I was lucky to experience a Yiddish live concert, indeed a very special event!

Exploring Jewish History in Wroclaw

My grandmother was born in Wroclaw and spent her first years before the war there. I remember her telling me, that when she was a young child, se saw German children throwing tomatoes on Jews in the streets of Wroclaw.

I wanted to know exactly how Jews lived in Wroclaw in the last centuries. I joined the free Tour "Jewish Wroclaw" showing the history of Jews in Wroclaw and the old Jewish cemetery with its spectacular buildings. We visited the former Jewish quarter and learned, why they were banned from the city in late middle ages and how they used a smart method to return to Wroclaw.
Photo by discovercracow.com
Auschwitz

One survivor once said, "Nothing you heard or read can describe the war." The horror is incomprehensible, even if it is tangible everywhere in the barracks. Mountains of suitcases, shoes, glasses, hair. The confines of the rooms, where dozens of people were crammed together. The silence in the crematoriums.  And then the pictures: Portraits of men, women and children along the hallways. Including the dates of their arrival in Auschwitz and their deathdays. Often only a few days, weeks or months are in between. More than a million people were killed in Auschwitz. 

While walking in the camp, you can't even imagine the horrifying scenes that must have played there. But it is important to recognize the mistakes that have been done in history. Never again!

By Ilana Schiffner

* photo by https://duze-podroze.pl
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2 Comments

DORRY
NOVEMBER 16, 2018

Hi Ilana, I am thinking of going to Poland. I read your blog on it. It inspired me.

JACKIE BETANCOURT
NOVEMBER 12, 2018

Thank you for sharing your experience, Ilana. This is now on my "to-do" list for my family and I, B'H.

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About Me

Welcome to "Jewishbychoice"! 
I am Ilana! 
​German, 28 years old, converted to Orthodox Judaism, currently living in Israel. Fascinated by Torah, Spirituality and Jewish values.
​Today I share my experiences on my blog and assist people in their conversion process. I teach weekly Judaism classes and offer professional conversion coaching.

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